Ask the Image Expert

Sherry Maysonave is the founder and president of Empowerment Enterprises, one of America's leading communication-image firms. Sherry conducts corporate seminars and coaches executives, professionals, and politicians in achieving excellence in communication and image. She is also the author of Casual Power: How to Power Up your Nonverbal Communication and Dress Down for Success

Power Dressing for Hourglass Figure

Question: I am an African-American, 35 yr. young female. I am a single parent with a professional position. As far as body-type/build; I know already that I am an hourglass, but I have no buttocks to speak of and I have a stomach. What can I do to minimize my stomach. I have begun an exercise and eating program.

Also, I have recently been diagnosed with various allergies. The area where these allergies manifested is my mouth and lip area. I have adjusted my diet to eating only the things I am supposed to; but there is a 'halo' around my mouth area. I cannot wear makeup (foundation), as I am allergic to some of the chemicals in them. Do you have any recommendations on cosmetic companies that use natural products in their cosmetics? I want to put my best foot forward, but am afraid that when people talk with me, they'll focus in on the 'halo'.
Celeste

Answer: The body type that you describe is a classic higher hip line that I describe in my book, Casual Power. A woman’s hip set is the most important distinction to make about her body type. Then she must learn what lines and styles flatter her and what does not.

A person with a higher hip line almost always has a stomach (even when she/he is very thin); with this hip set, the stomach is the first place that extra weight accumulates. It is simply a matter of bone structure, which cannot be changed in a fundamental way. Flat buttocks - or having virtually no buttocks - is a classic feature for this type. It’s not so much about weight as it is about bone structure. Place your hand on your side just below your waist, and you will feel the hipbone curving out at this point (the love handle area). With this body type, the more weight you carry, the bigger the love handles get, and the bigger the stomach will grow.

On a lower hip person (which usually has a flatter stomach), the bone is set much lower. Opposite to you, the lower hip person has fleshy buttocks and tends to put weight on there first and in the upper thigh area.

With that said, there are some clothing tips that will help to minimize your stomach. In Casual Power, I outline the do’s and don’ts for both hip-set types. In short, you must avoid clothing with elastic waists; large elastic will add 20 to 50 extra visual pounds. Tops worn on the outside (not tucked in) can also be a hazard for you. It must be a very long top and not one made of a clingy fabric, if it is to hang properly and act as a tummy camouflage. Otherwise, it will drape across the stomach, drawing even more attention. This is a tough one; paradoxically a spandex top, one that has a shaped waist and ends three to four inches just below your waist, sometimes works well to minimize a stomach. Whereas a top that is boxy and ends five to eight inches below the waistline will accentuate and add to the curve of a stomach.

Be careful of pleats as well. Skirts that have a flat set-on waistband with no, not even a smidgen of, pleating will look best on you. Pants can have pleats, but the pleats must go in the direction of the pockets (toward the outside), not toward the middle of your tummy. Pleats that are stitched down usually look quite flattering, but they are difficult to find. Pockets set at an angle will also work to your advantage.

In general, straight lines look the best on you; that does not mean tight, just straight, simple lines. If you enjoy wearing soft knits, make sure that the elastic in the waist is small, lying completely flat with no shirring or creating any extra bulk.

Since I have a higher hip line, I understand the difficulty that you have in finding clothing that flatters you. I have also noticed that if I do not eat a lot of carbohydrates, especially breads and starches, that my stomach is lessened. For the past six months, I have been enjoying eating protein (not fatty meats, but lean chicken and fish) accompanied by a lot of green vegetables, with no starches or bread. I am amazed! That may or may not fit with your allergy-oriented diet. If it does, give it a try and please let me know how it works for you.

Natural cosmetics are available, although they’re found in limited quantities. Clinique is an excellent brand that caters to women with allergies. It is sold in department stores. Almay is another supposedly allergy-free cosmetic line; it is a lower price point and can be found in drug and grocery stores. Aveda is also an excellent line that claims natural ingredients; it can be purchased in many upscale hair salons. In my experience with allergies, you may have to try various lines or combinations. Allergies are individual and vary greatly.

People do focus on odd things; you are right about the halo. When you find some cosmetics that agree with you, play up your eyes to keep the focus there. Avoid extra bright or dark lipsticks that would create an even stronger contrast with the halo around your mouth.

Best of luck to you,
Sherry Maysonave

Also see:

  • Tips for overweight dressing
  • Ask your image questions
  • Personal Power: A case study from 'Casual Power'