Ask the Image Expert

Sherry Maysonave is the founder and president of Empowerment Enterprises, one of America's leading communication-image firms. Sherry conducts corporate seminars and coaches executives, professionals, and politicians in achieving excellence in communication and image. She is also the author of Casual Power: How to Power Up your Nonverbal Communication and Dress Down for Success

Getting Pants to Fit Correctly

Question: I have a lot of body problems, but one of my most annoying ones is that apparently I am longer between my waist and my crotch than most other women which makes it very difficult to wear pants. If I get them lose enough, they end up looking ridiculously big. If I go to a smaller size, they look to tight. No matter what I do the material always seems to bunch up wrong and look awful. On top of all this I have short stumpy legs, so if I try to disguise the area with a long top or shirt I end up looking like I'm wearing a maternity top. Have you any suggestions for this most aggravating problem. I don't want to have to wear skirts for most of my activities. I'm 52, if that's any help.
Kathy

Answer: You have a classic lower hip line; it’s a common body type for women. I call it the Goddess type, as it can be one of the sexiest. Your hip bone is actually set inches down from your waist, lower than the medium or higher hip sets; this creates a long torso, particularly from the waist down.

The term used in the construction of pants is “rise.” You need pants cut with a long rise. Unfortunately, there is not a list of designers or clothing manufacturers that cut their pants that way on a consistent basis. And unlike men’s wear, women’s pants are not marked according to the rise, whether it’s cut long or short.

Jones of New York, Ellen Tracy, and Dana Buchman are bridge designers that often have pants cut with a long rise in their collections. Their lines are worth checking out. Even if they fit you in the hips, you will probably need to have the waist altered (taken in). Whether you’re buying pants or skirts, alterations are a necessity for your body type. Choose pants or skirts that fit you well in the hips and upper thigh (you may have to go up a size), then have them altered to fit. Generally, your body type requires that you buy larger to accommodate the hip/thigh area and then tailor down the waist and other areas that are too large.

Do not worry about the size (number) that you buy; it’s how the pants look on you that really counts! Elastic waist pants also work great for your body type as they usually have the fullness you need in the buttock and thigh area.

Another option to consider is to find a great tailor and have pants custom made; they will fit you perfectly! Many women with your body type prefer this option as they find shopping and the alteration process too frustrating. Custom made is often not as expensive as you might believe. Depending upon the tailor and the fabric you choose, the custom-made price is often lower than the sum of the ready-to-wear pants and the alterations charge.

As you probably know from experience, two-piece bathing suits will fit you far better than one-piece styles. Separates, in general clothing, will fit your body type more comfortably than items sold as suits.

To wear your top or blouse out (not tucked in), the trick is to choose the shorter varieties. Find tops that taper at the waist and end just below your pant’s waist band (no more than 2 to 3 inches) for the best un-tucked silhouette. This is true only “IF” your pants fit correctly! For the longer tops and blouses that you already own, try wearing a belt on the outside of the top. Your body type is well suited for belts, particularly for this look as you have plenty of room around your waist. Because you are long in this area, you can even wear the hipster-type belts.

Belts are back in fashion. Chain belts or link styles of all types are popular. In the Fall, leather and suede belts will also make a splash in the fashion scene.

To make your legs appear longer, try dressing in monochromatic outfits (all garments are in the same color family; they can be varying shades but they’re all from the same basic hue). Always wear the darker color tone on the bottom and get lighter in the same tone as you go toward your face. This will also make you appear taller and slimmer.

Lastly, your body type is not what I call a figure problem. It’s just a matter of education regarding what lines and styles most flatter you.

Best of luck to you,
Sherry Maysonave

Also see:

  • I recently accepted a position in the office of the University President. This summer I have worn skirts and tops - but sometimes I feel underdressed without a suit jacket. Are suits required in an office like this?
  • The law firm I work for just adopted business casual dress policy. What should I wear?
  • Ask your image questions
  • Personal Power: A case study from 'Casual Power'